Research Updated

Crater, Moon, Sun, Burn, Milkyways, Misty.

FABrics!!~19th Feb 2010

First day of presentations! I was all prepared (ish) but I didn't get picked anyway! To be honest I want to get it over and done with and also get some feedback earlier on in the module so then I can focus on the sketchbook work! However it was interesting to listen to others presentations and understand more about their designers. Some designers I have never heard of to be honest but thats what made it refreshing and got to learn something new! In the afternoon we were supposed to go into the West end and do some fabric research. I have to admit I went to the West end but I didn't go fabric shopping ><..... this was because I had to catch up with some marketing work and it was a good oppotunity to do so. Don't worry I still did my fabric research eventually though..doesn't matter if it wasn't of Friday right? Here's what I found: I chose fabrics that I felt related to my concept – colour and texture wise while also keeping in mind what kind of fabrics would actually be used for Alexander McQueen garments.

John Lewis

Printed Silk Chiffon – The colours and random water colour strokes attracted me. Overall it looks fluid, being chiffon and the flow of the pattern but the harsh brown breaks it down giving it a twisted earth and liquid combination.

Abstract silk satin – The blots project a blurry version of the images I took of ‘shattered’ pebbles. The texture of this is lovely – silky, slithering and warm. It also looks like holes/cavities that form on tree barks -again this is in my research. Could work!



Borovicks



^Some leather samples in colours of my concept board and also with slight distressed effects. However I found the back of the black piece more interesting. The worn out areas of the suede like side gave me the impression of splattered paint (graffiti) on concrete or worn off paint on the roads.

^Silk in a chiffon - a butterfly, marble dye effect and shreds sewn on. The colours are intense yet natural. The black piece has a patent effect with green metallic through it in a brick pattern. There are also flower patterns quilted in like an emboss. This fabric looks like flowers immersed in oil. Combining nature and industrialisation.

Berwick St Cloth Shop

Brown peacock chiffon - looks like eyes looking at you! but also effects of wood grains.

Copper leatherette - bronze effect. Would look effective if distressed to depict rusting metal.

Netting with 'copper' crystals' - a mineral/crystal effect. Again looks as if its cavitiy on nature.

-The coloured peacock print doesnt really fit into my concept (more Matther Williamson) but I thought it was a beautiful print so I may use it for something else for myself!

Cloth House (both)

Brown Linen with a plastic matte sheen on top - quite 'natural' looking until you feel it its very plasticy and up close you see the sheen.
more Woven cotton - again natural colours but roughly mixed down grains.

Metallic woven silk - can look like reptile skin but more like intricate brick work up close.

Blue crinkled silk - the actual fabric actually has large blots of dark ink/dye giving an uneven sea wave effect.

Patent leather - looked distressed used wrinkled - cracking.

Polyester/aluminium mix - I thought it was interesting that there was some metal content in there. Black ribbon is stitched all over in a zig zzg pattern. Looked as if it was growing and dominating the fabric.

Mixed wool yarns - effective visually - tangled, communication, trapped.

Maculloch and Wallis

Silk samples:
Silk tafftea

Silk Dupion - has a rough and raw effect

Shattered deformity

McQueen lives on

"Alexander McQueen will leave an important legacy that Gucci will continue to protect, grow and celebrate." Robert Polet, Gucci Group Chief Executive.

Properties of Fabrics

VISCOSE:

Viscose is a form of wood cellulose (wood pulp from trees) that is used in the manufacture of products for the medical industry. Viscose combined with natural and man made fibres can also be formed into a rayon, which is a textile that can also be used for clothes.

How it is made:

The cellulose (wood pulp) is dissolved and then reformed into filaments by chemical and mechanical processes. The filaments are produced via nozzles of various sizes and are can be twisted, stretched or doubled. The variation enables manufactures to produce and develop fabrics of different weight and properties.

Characteristics:

• Viscose has a silky appearance and feel.
• More elasticity than silk.
• It is lightweight and drapes very well.
• Breathable,similar to cotton weaves.
• Good for dyeing.
• However it creases very easily and therefore requires high maintenance.
  

SILK

A natural protein fibre.

How it is made:

Silk is obtained from cocoons produced by silk worms.

Characteristics:

• Shimmering and reflective appearance is due to the prism structured fibres.
• Smooth, soft texture but NOT slippery.
• Drapes well.
• One of the strongest natural fibres.
• Elasticity is poor - if stretched,it will remain stretched.
• Can be weakened if exposed to too much sunlight.
• Can shrink - Silk Chiffon can shrink upto 8% if wet. Therefore fabric should be washed prior to contructing garment.
• Resistant to mineral acids but sulphuric acid can dissolve it.
• Good absorbency - comfortable to be worn in warm weather.
• Low conduction keeps warm air near skin in cold weather.

WOOL

Another natural protein fibre frm the follicles of sheep. Other 'wool' may come from goats (cashmere, mohair) and camels.

How it is made:

Wool is shaved off sheep and then cleaned (scoured) either simply emersing it hot water or through chemical processes. Semi-greased wool (cleaned with milder detergents) may be worked into yarn and then used for knitting.

Characteristics:

• Crimped texture.
• Has elasticity.
• Able to retain heat.
• Highly absorbent - upto a third of its own weight.
• Ignites at a higher temperature than cotton - a textile used for firefighters.
• Does not melt, low flame spread and low heat release.
• Resistant to static electricity - does not cling to body.

SILK + WOOL = Drapes well (less flowing than silk and more stable), creates a textured effect, both are insulating, high durability, wool is softened by the silk, less bulky than wool. Excellent for tailored garments.

Lady Gaga dedicates to McQueen

FABRIC research

Over the weekend I went to Harvey Nichols and came across the McQueen concession. I managed to quickly unzip a dress a look inside the label to see what 'ingredients' the fabric was made of. This was the dress I saw:

So the dress composed of 54% Wool and 46% Silk. Other dresses seemed to be of the same composition or just silk (As the labels were deep down inside the garments it was difficult going around trying to look into every garment and fitting rooms were a little bit intimidating!). However I have looked on the website and it briefly tells you what the garment is made of but without the percentages:^ Lycra

Viscose ^

Silk satin and crepe^

*Information on the fabrics to come!

CONCEPT board

First attempt:



Changed slightly:

The last version is a cropped of the second one. When I minimised the window for the second board I thought it worked quite well with just the browns and destruction effects so I cropped it and think its probably the most effective one.

Concept:

"End of the World Scene" - the destruction of the earth in the form of nature. >> Physical damage to the surface of the earth and death/deterioration of all nature. It is a war between technology, industrialisation and life. I will also look into demolishment of architechture and mechanics. For fabrics I am thinking of distressed effects and 'imperfect perfections' - manipulating fabrics to a destroyed impression but with a purpose.

PDP: 12th Feb

Our first lesson back. Karen gave us an insightful, introductory presentation on the structure of fabrics. The task this week is to look at what fabrics are commonly used by our designers and then research them in detail. I think going back to the very start of how fabrics are formed will give us a better understanding of how to handle it and what it will be most appropriate for in terms of design. Looking forward to the next few weeks of fabric learning!

The afternoon session involved a concept board activity which I missed >.<- I was looking forward to it as well! So I haven't really seen what other people have done and haven't been able to get some feedback for my concept (my fault obviously).

Well here are some images (primary images!) that I think are strongest of what I have and have roughly put them together:

From this I will attempt to develop a concept board!

R.I.P.

I am saddened today to know that McQueen has died. An unexpected shock, that I still can't believe. He has been highly influential and although gone his work will continue to inspire and impact. There has been no-on like him.

Fashion will feel an emptiness without you.

Rest in Peace

Lee Alexander McQueen 1969-2010

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