'Volcanic' top - Kei Ito

These pieces were made by a Japanese artist called Kei Ito. The textile effect seen was done by a Japanese tie-dye technique called Shibori. Squared pieces of fabric are twisted, tied and then stitched lightly in pointed forms. When unwound the fabric maintains a pointed shape. To create the top, patches of these dyed fabric were sewn together. The first image 'Between Matter and Memory (2001)' , the patches of fabric were sewn around a wired framework creating an abstract cocoon.

I felt the fabric myself - it looks stiff and starchy but was very light and crisp. You could press it down, twist and fold it but the pointy shape will spring back up! Love that it totally disguises the body shape and the wrinkled texture reminds me of some of my research - cracks/ripples.

Interesting how a simple process can manipulate fabric into an unusual but exciting three dimensional form.

(Location: Birmingham Art Gallery)

Spring/Summer 2010

So if you haven't seen already this is the most recent collection from Alexander McQueen titled 'Plato's Atlantis'.

Graphic detailed reptile and butterfly prints as well as a combination of florals.

Sharp, crisp silhouettes with strong shoulders and flared out hips.

Earthy forrest greens, golden warm yellows, luscious mud browns with tropical sky blue dominated the collection. Plus a twist of romance and florals in shades of red roses.

I love these shoes!!! (they actually look wearable as well!) >>>

As I previously said doesn't some of the collection remind you of Avatar? In particular this image from the show where the setting is blue and the body is glistening. >>

Atlantis was a place in the Atlantic ocean that claimed to have existed by a Greek philosopher called Platos. This collection is an exploration of life from somewhere else - aliens/extra terrestrial? Hence the abnormal shaped/plaited hair and shoes of course! Yet it is also very futuristic and digital in terms of the highly defined prints and metallic sparks.

A combination of futuristic, biological science and technology

S/S '09 to be continued?

The Spring/Summer 2009 collection titled ' Natural Dis-tinction Un-natural Selection' was based upon McQueen's exploration on the thoughts of Charles Darwin - evolution of mankind. The catwalk show displayed the story clearly. The stage was displayed with large stuffed animals and had a backdrop of the earth. The show started with animal printed garments, floral embellishments and flowing, free fabric. The colours were fairly neutral and soft.

As the show progressed, the pieces morphed into more harsh and stable structures with digital graphic prints and concentrated colours.

Reaching the end the garments had strong, stiff silhouettes, with the use of leather, pvc,metallic effects as well as mechanical prints. Colours turned to a palette of metal shades. This was the introduction of industrialisation, thus how it now effects nature.

So with my initial idea it could possibly the continuation of this collection - the effects of industrialisation/technology have surpassed yet destroyed the power of nature. Result - decaying earth.

I've gone back to brum town now but will continue to research this idea and post new findings up!

Alexander McQueen . . but then Gucci came along

In 2000 Gucci aqquired 51% of the Alexander McQueen label. Though Gucci were the majority stake holders, McQueen remained the creative director and had full creative control over the business. Robert Plolet became the new cheif executive of Gucci in 2004 after Tom Ford and Domenico De Sole left. McQueen was able to triple his sales within three years and meet Polet's target by 2007. This was achieved by the expansion of a secondary line 'McQ', accessories, fragrance and footwear. A skull print scarf did extremely well, which sparked high street duplicates.

McQueen@Givenchy

So going back to McQueen, after graduating from CSM he produced collections under his own name. During this time he created 'bumsters' which he became known for. These were extremely low cut trousers that partially revealed the buttocks and was a play on the current low rise jeans trend. However, in 1996 McQueen was chosen by Givenchy to design for them in Paris. McQueen has expressed that 'I was too young to take on Givenchy'. His first collection for the fashion house was also his first haute couture collection. It became his worst work. He realised this was because he was not being true to himself and that he was forcing himself to fit into the concept of couture. Being himself is all it should be.
Again while McQueen was at Givenchy, he was accused of being a misogynist. In one of the shows he use fibre glass mannequins instead of real models. This was apparently because McQueen wanted the audience to see the garments on a blank canvas.

Cracking Earth

These images give me the chills....imagine all ground below our feet turned into this. Should be something you presume thats on Mars or the moon but the second image is from Australia due to extreme low water levels.

Start of Ideas: Decay, Destroy, Demolition

McQueen places negative issues in his work to create attention so that people take notice and listen. His concepts previously have been quite 'dark' and mainly revolve around death, war and religion. He enjoys 'making the beauty look ugly'.

Initial idea - look into detail on damage to the earth...such as environmental damage caused by human effects, demolished buildings/machinery?

Own images to begin with

Start of Ideas - V & A : Decode

McQueen Flagship

So I decided to take a visit to the McQueen flagship store a couple days ago on Bond St. I got off at Bond St station but was totally lost! Someone kindly directed me the direction and I must have walked for about half an hour down Bond St to find that the store is riiiightt at the botttom - no where near the station! The best part was it just closed when I got there! great! but hey I saw what was in the window and it was still worth it! The main piece was the yellow lace dress from the Resort Spring/Summer 10' collection. The lace was very graphical like some kind of mechanical/gothical architecture work - very intricate and all the details showed so well over the flamboyant yellow colour. Through the window I saw a colour palette of primary red, blue, yellow,grey and black - back to basic colours.

The next day I got off at Green Park station which is much closer to the store (learn for next time!) and managed to see the garments close up. And yes the tailoring is impecable! beautiful smooth cuts. Also saw some printed chiffon - which reminisces Avatar. I'll post up the S/S 10' collection later but the snake prints and whole theme of extra terrestial/reptile does reflect the art of the film.

Early McQueen Collections

Early McQueen Collections gave the impression that he was a misogynist. 'The Highland Rape' in 1995 for example was thought to have reference to actual act of rape. McQueen clarifys that this collection actually refers to the slaughter of Scottish clans by the British.

Highland Rape 1995:




< Provocative designs and shreds of fabrics were worn by models to connotate 'rape'.

McQueen is actually the complete opposite from a misogynist. At the age of 8 he saw his own elder sister being beaten up by her husband right in front of him. This had a major impact on him growing up as a child and the way he sees women. He has said that when he designs clothes he wants the woman to look strong and that any man should be scared of walking up to a woman wearing his clothes.

MA at Central St Martins

Gigili and his partner split a year later and the company came under pressure. The hype over this fashion design went flat. McQueen returned back to London in which he decided to apply for a teaching job at Central Saint Martins in pattern cutting.They had no openings but instead he took a Masters degree at the college, which has been a course to other designers such as John Galliano and Rifat Ozbek. His graduate collection was famously bought by Vogue fashion editor Isabella Blow, who later comitted suicide in 2007. McQueens Spring/Summer 2008 collection was dedicated to her.



Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2008 - influence: Elizabeth How, the woman convicted of being a witch in 1692 - a collection that was softer, less controversial, less rebellious/angry.

Continuing the journey with a one way ticket

So after working at Saville Row McQueen went on to work for Bermans & Nathans, whom were theatrical costumiers. The company made costumes for major London productions such as Les Miserables. Then on he worked with Koji Tatsuno, a designer who incorporated British tailoring with avant garde, which really attracted McQueen. However the company became bankrupt after a short while. At the time, McQueen felt that London had nothing going on for him. Romeo Gigli however was the excitement of fashion at the time. Without thinkin anything through, McQueen ordered a one way ticket to Milan from his sister. When he reached the Romeo Gigli studio he walked in with his costume portfolio (the worse portfolio ever according to himself) but got nothing. He left, but walking down the streets he heard a woman shouting at him 'Romeo wants to see you. He wants to see you tommorrow'. He got the job.

The Beginning of McQueen

Alexander McQueen (birth name Lee Alexander McQueen) was born in 1969 on March 17th. He was the youngest of six children and his father was a cab driver from East London. He described himself as 'a big-mouth East London yob', which media reports that his life has been like a fairytale; east end boy from rough background becoming one of the greatest British fashion designers.

Apparently, McQueen claims to have started his obsession with fashion from as young as three. When he left school in 1986 his mother, a genealogist, persuaded him to apply for work in Saville Row. An opportunity arised at Anderson and Sheppard, which was the most demanding and authentic tailors that remained on the Row, as his first official job at only the age of 17. At Anderson ans Sheppard he learned how to cut and produce tailored trousers over the period of two years before moving to Gieves and Hawkes, where he then learned to construction of jackets. By the time he was 20 he had already gained more technical expertise than any of his comtemporaries. All this experience was his platform for what the future had to bring him. . .

Alexander McQueen it is!

So I have been assigned with the greatness Alexander McQueen , which I am extremely happy with. Yet at the same time the pressure is on! Having such an influential designer does make me nervous since I supposedly have to design for his label ... so the hard work starts here. Nervous but not afraid!

What has caught my attention to McQueen in the past/symbolic to the McQueen fashion label: